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I received a query from a reader today asking how to bleed air from a Firebird popular oil boiler. This stems from a previous article on servicing oil boilers, I thought I might as well share the answer with you as it quite difficult to locate the correct nut to loosen if you are unfamiliar with the boiler.
It certainly took me a while to find the right location when I accidently ran out of oil a few years ago. See photograph below for a guide. The photograph shows a side view of the boiler burner and pump unit. The bleed nut is shown clearly and, using an allen key, it is easy to loosen it to allow the trapped air to escape. When all the air has escaped some fuel will start to leak out, once this happens, re-tighten the nut.
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Press the red restart button and the boiler should restart, you might have to press it a few times. Please note however it is easy to loosen one the wrong nut by accident, these are shown in the picture also.
These nuts will bleed the system but will also cause problems with the flue/air mixture settings (upper nut) or allow too much flue to escape (lower pressure gauge nut). Post navigation. Thanks very much for posting this thread, I wasted a lot of time looking for the bleed nut and tried every nut other than the right one, which leads me on to a question.
I have a new (1 year old) Firebird c26 Boilerhouse, slightly different to the pictured boiler, and I loosened the lower nut (pictured above) on my boiler while I was trying to release the trapped air. The boiler is now firing as it should be, but will I have done damage, or, will it now be damaging the boiler because I loosened the nut for attaching a pressure gauge? Thanks again for the post.
Hi Will, Not sure what exactly is wrong, but I’ll try to help if you haven’t got the burner running already at this stage. When you listen at startup or after pressing the button, the fan and oil pump start first, after a few seconds the high tension electrodes produce a spark, shortly afterwards there is a click, which is the solenoid valve opening to allow the oil through the nozzle.
Oil Boilers For Home Heating
When the photocell is defective, there are usually no sparks and no click, it locks out before that. After that it could be dirty electrodes, and a replacement Nozzle is no harm either. Of course, the control box itself or the oil pump could be defective, but they are more expensive to replace and usually don’t give a lot of trouble. Hope this helps, Gerd.
Hi Will, I have a Firebird Popular 90 Boiler. I ran out of oil a few weeks ago but managed to get the boiler started after a few attempts with restart button. Last night I came home and the radiators were stone cold although the heating was set to come on on timer.
I went to boiler and there is not even the normal red light showing on the restart button. When I press it nothing happens although there is plenty of oil in the tank which I checked. The are very snowy conditions at the moment in my area and I am worried that the pipes have frozen or will freeze. Does this seem like a simple bleeding of boiler situation?
Fire Bird 90 Oil Boiler Manual
I have never done so before but intend to follow your instructions above when it gets light. Failing this, is my only option to call someone who services boilers? Any advice welcome-great to have something like this to refer to by the way. Many thanks, Louise. Eamon, Thank you very much 🙂 I was reading my way down having sat here for ages waiting for the fuel to come through when I got to your comment. I happened to have an old vac right next to me, so cupped my hand around the end of the vac and the hole shown in the pic above, and voila within 15 seconds I had oil through! I’ve got a little tap on the oil line so I was able to shut it off and put everything back together.
Opened the line and gave it a final bleed with the cap half a turn open, pressed the red button and heating was restored once more. Fantastic, I love solutions like this 😀. I recently bled my boiler however it is a different model to the one pictured above. I got it working with no difficulties however from reading the above I am concerned that I have adjusted the flue/air mixture by mistake.
The nut I loosed did leak a small bit of oil after which the boiler fired up correctly? Would the flue/air adjustment screw leak oil or can it only be the screw to bleed air? Secondly is there a correct setting for that the nut used to bleed the boiler should be set? Thanks in advance.